Parque Nacional Tyrona

Up early as a busy day ahead. Initially an “interesting” hour spent at the post office in Santa Marta but in the end we successfully (hopefully!) sent off our letters to the UK. We negotiated leaving our large packs at the Hostel and made our way to Santa Marta market with day packs, camping equipment and dry rations. The market was chaotic and it was a case of head down and walk ignoring the numerous shouts of “El Gringo!” as it seemed everyone had some service or goods they thought we'd like to buy. Fortunately we found the local bus to El Zaino – the gate to Parque Nacional Tayrona. We set of with a full bus including a group of Argentinian troubadours..or so they seemed. Dropping us off at El Zaino with little instruction, we found a jeep to take us into the park and drop us at Canaveral – the furthest point any vehicle could go, from here on it is by feet or donkey. We trekked almost 2 hours in sweltering sunshine & humidity through a jungle path negotiating large boulders & millions of red ants. We finally made it to the campsite 'El Cabo' & pitched our tent, our home for the next few nights. The park is simply stunning, with an incredible coast line, empty beaches, coral reefs & very diverse wildlife hiding in the jungle.

We up at first light on our first full day (5:15am) having gained 4 hours sleep each as a result of the unrelenting heat, continuous animal noises and mosquitoes sensing fresh UK meat! As we were up and the weather was slightly overcast, we decided to undertake the 3.5 hours hike to and from 'La Peublito', an ancient indigenous tribal village. Between 450-1600 BC this village was inhabited by 2000 inhabitants, but it now lies empty with the ruins hidden on top of one of the mountains in the jungle. We were slightly concerned to see we were the only people on the path, especially considering the 'path' was more of an assault course,crouching through caves, scaling boulders and a continuous uphill gradient. To add to our nervousness, we were accompanied on route by a range of wildlife including, multi-coloured snakes, black & yellow frogs, geckos, lizards, bats, monkeys,blue crabs, many coloured butterflies and dragonflies the size of birds (of which landed in David's hair on the descent). It was worth it in the end to see such a rare sight nestled within the breathtaking jungle backdrop. We relaxed there for a short while and had some food, but our return to the camp site was hastened by what sounded to us like incredible growls and roars coming from the mountainside opposite our path. Initially thinking it was some kind of large cat, we found out it was probably some kind of large ape fight between two dominant males...if that's so, then the nature programmes you see on BBC do not give justice to just how loud and impressive the roars are. After such a taxing morning, we opted for the beach in the afternoon, which is not as easy as it sounds, due to the extremely strong currents and waves you can only swim at one beach 'La Piscina', another 20 minute trek through the jungle. The bay there is cut off by a coral reef, making the snorkeling there fantastic with a large area to explore.

We decided to treat ourselves to dinner and beers at the campsite 'restaurant' and a game of chess....Lynne is getting better every game!

The next morning, after a much better sleep we decide to spend the day at La Piscina and then to head back to Santa Marta to pick up our bags and travel onto Taganga – apparently a beautiful little bay area 5km from Santa Marta. Again, the weather is slightly overcast but it allows a day of comfortable rest on the beach and snorkeling in the reef. The afternoon is less fun as we pack up and begin the hike back to the entrance, during which the heavens opened...wow, it was some rain!! Even with the jungle shelter we arrive at Canaveral drenched, but it is surprisingly refreshing considering the heat. We find a jeep back to the gates and then take the local bus back to Santa Marta. To rejuvenate ourselves, we decide to head back to the same fish restaurant in Santa Marta we enjoyed a few nights earlier for some more grilled fish .again it was delicious.

Afterwards we took a cab to Taganga and checked into Techos Azules (Blue Roofs). The place is awesome, overlooking the beach with rocking chairs, hammocks (chess set!) among it's other facilities not forgetting the most comfortable mattress we have slept on so far!

On the buses!

Sunday: We decided to head along the coast today to Santa Marta. We made it to the bus station on the outskirts of town are were immediately descended upon by ticket touts for the various bus companies. We managed to negotiate a price and, feeling quite pleased with ourselves, boarded the bus. On cue, the bus started its engine and so we thought we were off on our journey...not quite! For the next hour, the bus proceeded to crawl its way in a loop around the bus station while the touts rounded up more passengers. Finally, we were on our way up the coast.

The view from the bus window was really something, lush green fields and foliage almost made us feel like we were back in Cheshire, until a corrugated iron house would appear reminding us of our whereabouts. The level of poverty in the country is quite startling, thousands, if not millions of people were made homeless in Colombia's internal conflicts. It's not really safe for us to walk around certain parts of town but from the windows we saw shanty towns and houses built on the edge of the water, surrounded by litter where children play barefoot in the filth. It seems that everyone has something to sell, all of the houses on the main roads double as stores selling street food and drinks, while men and women continually boarded the bus selling snacks, refreshments and jewellery. We also pass through some more prosperous towns where terraced, multi-coloured houses with tiled patios line the clean streets, they seem a sharp contrast to the poorer areas and highlight Colombia's wealth gap.

After 2 hours, we reached Barranquillo, where, unbeknown to us, we were changing buses. We saw our bags being despatched onto the pavement and race off the bus to find out what's going on. Two touts directed us to another bus without explanation but we obediently boarded the bus on the promise that it will deliver us to Santa Marta. The bus then edged its way through the town at snail's pace for over an hour (!) as the touts collected more passengers, finally, with the bus full, we're off again on our journey.

With the help of our accompanying passengers we alight the bus at the right place and take a cab into the beach area to find somewhere to stay. Our 4 hour journey has taken us over 7 hours!

We end up at the Casa Familiar, a family-run hostel with decent rooms equipped with bathrooms and ceiling fans. The location is perfect, a short stroll from the beach where we plan to spend most of tomorrow. Gaining confidence in our Spanish we ask the Hostel owner for a recommendation for dinner and take her advice. The restaurant is fairly basic looking, although there are menus with prices so at least we know we won't be charged 'gringo' prices! The food, however, is AWESOME! Huge portions (which are very welcome as we haven't eaten since breakfast) of prawns in a creole salsa and grilled fillets of fish heaped with garlicy vegetables accompanied by chips and rice. Delicioso!

South America!!!!

We spent Monday evening in South beach, enjoying a few happy hour drinks and ending the night in The News Café – an institution of South Beach. The cheese burgers were exquisite and were quickly polished off.

Tuesday was spent on the beach and in the sea, a chilled day in all preparing for the trip to Colombia early Wednesday morning.

Wednesday: We flew into Cartegena, Colombia via Panama, but arrived one bag short.....David's bag! After some flawless Spanish negotiations we agreed to have my bag delivered to us the next day at our hostel. We took a cab to Hostel Holiday, and this proved an eye opener to just how insane this city is!! The hostel is decent, a lovely courtyard for socialising with other backpackers, a clean room and fresh towels, better then expected.





First day was spent exploring the beautiful old town, a truly picturesque area with a very bloody history courtesy of the English cannons. The heat has been ridiculous, too much to handle at times for two pasty Brits. We also visited the beach at Bocagrande and enjoyed the warm Caribbean sea. (but did not enjoy the endless Del boys and massage ladies who made a beeline for us as soon as they saw us coming).



The second day we went to Colombia's largest mud volcano......Lynne is skeptical whether this can be classified as a genuine volcano!! Nevertheless we stripped off to our swim wear and took the plunge into the mud. Probably one of the most random things we have done. We washed off in the lagoon afterwards and then were taken to a remote beach for a fantastic lunch of fresh grilled fish, fried plantain and rice (of course).



In the evening we headed out on the town with Graeme & Katie after a boozy game of ring of fire in the hostel. A great night which led to our first hangover on South American soil. The hangover was nursed by a quiet day at the beach, saving the pennies before we head up the coast to Santa Marta today.

Miami 16-18th October

Friday: So, this morning we started our journey. After the goodbyes with the parents we boarded the jumbo. Pre-marriage Lynne always had bad luck with flights, and as a Henderson, not much has changed. Sat in the seat next to her was possibly the fattest teenager we have ever seen. The arm rest between Lynne and him was hidden amongst the bingo wings. After a swift complaint that “these people” should have to buy two seats, the only two tv screens on the plane that messed up were ours......in short, rubbish flight, but hopefully the complaints card put in might secure an upgrade on the return leg whenever that will be.

In Miami, we get to Cyrus's Miami Beach pad, the house is awesome! And Cyrus being the legend he is, has stocked up the fridge with groceries / juice and beers!! First job, a maple streaky bacon sarnie!

Once Cyrus turned up and awoke us from our Chort (Persian siesta), we headed into South Beach and grabbed pizza, a beer and people watched on Lincoln Drive. Just enough to ensure a restful night with the jet lag kicking in and to prepare for what Cyrus has said will be a chilled day! I should also add at this point that Cyrus arrived with his pug Kalua, she's adorable and so much fun.

Saturday: First stop, The Standard Spa.

The place is amazing, first order of the day is breakfast, Lynne & Cyrus opt for the Eggs Benedict whilst I sniff out the pancakes & maple syrup accompanied by Chicken apple sausages....all this washed down by a pitcher of Sangria.

Then a chill by the pool on the waterfront; the salt water pool is perfect in the heat of the day. In the afternoon, we head to the Turkish baths and relax for several hours between the incredible steam room, sauna, waterfall showers, and other facilities. All three of us leave feeling completely zen froom the medatitive environment of the hamam, the only thing needed now is food. Cyrus takes us to downtown to Garcias Fish Restaurant, situated right on the waterfront. It serves fresh fish caught that morning, we start with StoneCrab Claws to share, Lobster Chowder and then Grouper; the freshness is immediately obvious and it was so good we didn't quite realise how much we had eaten. Leaving that plaice (bad joke) we were looking forward to a quality chort.

The chort lasted somewhat longer than expected and it wasn't until until 10.45 that we all woke up! We got together and decided not to undo all the relaxation from the spa day, the decision was made to chill-ax and stay in. So after some tea and conversation, we headed back to bed.

Sunday: Lynne disappeared for a run at 8am as usual, I'll stick to my word and start running when we arrive in South America!!

We grabbed breakfast with Cyrus at a local Jewish Cafe, huge portions once more, breakfast is perhaps an understatement....It took us through to dinner!

After b'fast Cyrus took us on a tour of Miami, stopping off in Coral Gables for a much needed walk around the area; then on to Vizcaya, a stately home built to replicate a typical northern italian village..a beautiful spot right on Biscayne Bay with fantastic gardens and a maze much to Lynne's excitement.

After saying a goodbye to Cyrus & Kalua we walked the boardwalk from Miami Beach to South Beach, people watching and checking out the incredible hotels and the art deco area.

Monday: David's fitness regime started. We both felt very miami running down the boardwalk & the beach stopping off for bootcamp style exercises! Now we've done the exercise, Miami beach is calling us in beautiful sunshine...I think we'll spend the rest of the day there.

First Post Pre-wedding

A quick test post.

Both sat on the couch, unemployed with plenty of time on our hands...life is good! One of our last nights at home!

See (some of) you at the wedding!

D&L